{"id":292,"date":"2021-12-29T02:54:28","date_gmt":"2021-12-29T02:54:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/rootedtank.com\/?p=292"},"modified":"2023-07-04T02:25:41","modified_gmt":"2023-07-04T02:25:41","slug":"low-tech-planted-tank-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/rootedtank.com\/low-tech-planted-tank-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"Low-Tech Planted Tanks: The Ultimate Start-to-Finish Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Low-tech planted tanks are becoming more popular are aquarist seek lower-cost and lower-maintenance methods for keeping fish. This mega-guide reveals everything you would every want to know about building and maintaining a low-tech aquarium of your own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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What is a low-tech tank?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Low-tech tanks are characterized by their lack of carbon-dioxide (CO2<\/sub>)<\/a> injection and their use of low-medium lighting. “High-tech” setups require CO2<\/sub>, high lighting, more fertilization and additional maintenance, generally speaking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CO2<\/sub>, lighting and fertilization is used to grow more lush plants. Some plant species cannot be grown without high-tech setups. This means that low-tech setups will provide you with fewer plant choices and slower plant growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, you can certainly still grow thriving and beautiful low-tech planted aquariums with a little understanding.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Why would you want a low-tech aquarium?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Low-tech aquariums cost less due to fewer equipment requirements<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The main benefits of having a low-tech tank are lower costs and slightly lower maintenance. The increased cost of a high-tech setup is driven mostly by the CO2<\/sub> mechanism.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A complete CO2<\/sub> system may cost between $200-$300.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Note:<\/strong> Despite being less expensive and requiring less equipment, low-tech tanks still need regular maintenance<\/a> and care. We believe it’s important to make this clear for anyone thinking that “low-tech” means “low care.”<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Deep substrate tanks require fewer water changes and maintenance<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Within the category of “low-tech tanks” you will find deep substrate tanks. These tanks are characterized by having 3-inches or more of substrate depth. Usually comprised of a nutrient-rich base and capped with 1.5 to 2-inches of sand or gravel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Deep substrate in our 20-gallon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The deep substrate creates pockets that contain little to no oxygen, which allows anaerobic bacteria to populate. This type of bacteria will denitrify a tank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In other words, it will remove nitrates, which would otherwise require regular water changes to accomplish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While deep substrate setups can be utilized in high-tech tanks, they are generally associated with low-tech setups.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Required equipment for low-tech tanks<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Shorter tanks are better for low-tech lighting<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The most obvious piece of equipment is the tank itself. The tank size will mostly determine what types of fish species can be kept. Regarding plants, you can grow pretty much any species in any sized tank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Large volume tanks<\/strong> will also greatly affect the total cost of your setup due to the power required for your filter and heater. Also, a larger tank will require a greater volume of substrate, hardscape and fertilization.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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20-gallon tank that is 16-inches tall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Shorter tanks<\/strong> may be beneficial for low-tech setups because lower-intensity lighting will be able to more effectively reach the bottom of the tank. The photosynthetic available radiation (PAR) is roughly cut in half every 6-inches of aquarium depth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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10-gallon tank that is 12-inches tall<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Therefore, plants in shorter tanks would receive a greater amount of light to support their growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can certainly over-do it with lighting in a low-tech setup<\/a>. You will likely find that many aquarium lights will be too intense for a low-tech setup and will need to be run on a lower intensity, or positioned higher above the tank.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But it’s worth thinking about if you choose to buy a tank that’s 16-inches or tall, or are considering low-end lighting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Water conditioner to remove chlorine from tap water<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Water conditioner is a liquid that is added during water changes to remove chlorine and heavy metals from your tap water. Chlorine is added in trace amounts to tap water because it kills bacteria, making it safe for human consumption.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But in our aquariums, we want to maintain colonies of beneficial bacteria as part of the nitrogen cycle. Therefore, adding water conditioner during water changes is a crucial step in maintaining a healthy aquarium.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We recommend using Seachem Prime because it’s a reliable product that not only removes chlorine, but also temporarily detoxifies ammonia and nitrite that may be present in your aquarium when it’s not fully cycled.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Seachem Prime water conditioner<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This is helpful for preventing gill burns and fish stress. It also temporarily detoxifies ammonia and nitrites that are currently present in the tank, which is a big plus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We’ve also had success using the API brand water conditioner. However, it does not detoxify existing ammonia and nitrite.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Heater for maintaining a consistent temperature<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Aquarium heaters are designed to maintain your water at a consistent temperature. This is important for freshwater tropical fish that typically thrive in 75-80 \u00b0F (24-27 \u00b0C).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is slightly warmer than room temperature, which is why it’s best to have a heater in your aquarium at all times.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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100-watt heater for our 20-gallon tank<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

A constant temperature is beneficial for healthy plant growth as well.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The heater you choose to buy will depend on the volume of water in your tank. Use the following table to determine the power rating for your temperature based on your tank size.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tank volume<\/strong><\/td>Heater wattage<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
5-gallons<\/td>25 watts<\/td><\/tr>
10-gallons<\/td>50 watts<\/td><\/tr>
15-gallons<\/td>75 watts<\/td><\/tr>
20-gallons<\/td>100 watts<\/td><\/tr>
30-gallons<\/td>150 watts<\/td><\/tr>
50-gallons<\/td>250 watts<\/td><\/tr>
75-gallons<\/td>375 watts<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Filtration for removing plant debris<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Aquarium filters collect loose debris in your tank and aerate the water with surface agitation. Filters also prevent your tank from having stagnant water, which is a significant cause of algae growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Low-tech and high-tech tanks do not require different filters. However, there are benefits to having a filter with a higher flow rate in some circumstances. On the other hand, too much water flow may harm certain plants and fish species.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sponge filters<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Sponge filters are a great starting point for fishkeepers because they are easy to use and inexpensive. Their ease-of-use make them a great addition for low-tech tank-keepers who want a setup that is easy to maintain and simple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aquarium Co-op sponge filter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One drawback is that you cannot add chemical filtration to sponge filters. This is a form of filtration that is used to remove dissolved particles from a tank’s water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pros<\/strong><\/td>Cons<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
\u2714\ufe0f Inexpensive
\u2714\ufe0f Easy to clean
\u2714\ufe0f Good surface agitation
\u2714\ufe0f Good for beneficial bacteria growth<\/td>		\u274c Takes up physical tank space
\u274c Cannot use chemical filtration
\u274c Louder than other filtration types
\u274c Can lower CO2<\/sub> due to surface agitation<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Hang-on-the-back filters<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Hang-on-the-back filters are another great option for low-tech tanks because they’re easy to use and cost effective. The biggest advantage over sponge filters is that they can be customized with filter media.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In other words, you can add different types of filtration materials inside your filter to remove varying sizes of debris.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You can also add something like activated carbon to remove dissolved solids, which is useful for removing medication after treating fish illness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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AquaClear hang-on-the-back filter on our 20-gallon<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

HOB filters generally require more maintenance due to the water intake getting clogged. This is especially true in planted tanks where they is often more loose debris to be collected.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pros<\/strong><\/td>Cons<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
\u2714\ufe0f Easiest to clean
\u2714\ufe0f Takes up minimal tank space
\u2714\ufe0f Customizable filter media
\u2714\ufe0f Adjustable flow rate<\/td>		\u274c Power motor can burn out
\u274c Can lower CO2<\/sub> due to surface agitation
\u274c Requires frequent maintenance<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Canister filters<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

This filtration system comes with a medium to large-sized canister that is usually stored in a cabinet beneath your aquarium stand. Similar to a hang-on-the-back filter, it has an intake and output tube that the tank water is transported through.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Canister filters are more expensive and especially useful for large-sized tanks with higher filtration requirements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fluval canister filter<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

They typically achieve better filtration due to the tank water being sent through the filters with higher pressure. You can also add a greater volume of filter media, which increases total filtration and creates more space for beneficial bacteria to grow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pros<\/strong><\/td>Cons<\/strong><\/td><\/tr>
\u2714\ufe0f Quietest option
\u2714\ufe0f Takes up minimal tank space
\u2714\ufe0f Customizable filter media
\u2714\ufe0f Adjustable flow rate
\u2714\ufe0f Pressurized filtration<\/td>		\u274c Power motor can burn out
\u274c Most expensive option
\u274c Difficult to clean
\u274c Takes up the most out-of-tank space<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Substrate is crucial for successful plant growth<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

There are many types of aquarium substrates<\/a> that can be used in low-tech planted tanks. All of them can be categorized into two categories: inert and active.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Active aqua soil substrate in a planted tank<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Inert substrate will not alter an aquarium’s water parameters, whereas active substrate will. This is because active substrates generally contain water softeners or nutrients for improving plant growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are also some other active substrates designed to increase water hardness, such as crushed coral, for certain fish species like African cichlids.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Generally speaking, all substrates will work in a low-tech planted tank. But some may allow you to grow plants more easily.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In our opinion, Fluval Statum is an excellent active substrate for low-tech tanks because it both softens your water and adds nutrients. These two factors will create a more suitable environment for your plants to grow.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Fluval Stratum substrate<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

At the moment, we are also having success with organic dirt-based substrate. For example, in our 20-gallon tank, we used a 1-inch base layer of organic potting mix, covered with a 2-inch layer of sand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Real soil is packed full of nutrients, which means it’s comparable to even the best aqua soils. In fact, organic soil contains so much nutrients that it will quickly leach into a tank’s water column and create ammonia and nitrate spikes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is why a 1.5-2 inch sand or gravel cap is necessary.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So far, we’ve had the most success and best overall experience using a dirt substrate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Our first planted aquarium was built using Seachem Flourite. This is an inert substrate made from clay. It does not provide nutrients like an active substrate would, but it’s a great alternative.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Fertilization for enhanced plant growth<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Fertilization is the process of adding macro and micronutrients to either the substrate or water column. These nutrients are absorbed by plants and used to develop chlorophyll, leaves, root systems and more.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We believe fertilization is important in both high-tech and low-tech tanks. It’s crucial if you choose to use inert substrate that does not contain these important plant nutrients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

You could possibly grow plants successfully without fertilization if you use a robust active substrate such as ADA Amazonia or organic soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, even active substrates tanks would likely benefit from added liquid fertilization.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are a few methods for dosing fertilization in your aquarium:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Root tab fertilization provides nutrients in the substrate<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Root tabs are dissolvable capsules that are buried beneath your aquarium substrate. They contain macro and micronutrients necessary for healthy plant growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aquarium Co-op root tabs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

They are especially useful for heavy root-feeding plants such as sword plants and cryptocoryne species.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To add root tabs, simply bury them every 5-6 inches across your tank. In our experience, it’s best to bury new root tabs every 3-5 weeks or as you start noticing nutrient deficiencies in your plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We’ve had success with both the API and Aquarium Co-op root tabs. We are currently using the Aquarium Co-op ones and seem to be noticing slightly better growth, so We would recommend them first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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API root tabs<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

But there are many other root tab brands on the market that we would recommend trying. Some may work better for your tank depending on the specific nutrient requirements of your setup.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To make things simple, just try two or three and stick with whichever one appears to promote the best growth without encouraging algae blooms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

All-in-one liquid fertilizers add nutrients to the water column<\/h4>\n\n\n\n

This is a liquid form of the same macro and micronutrients. They usually come in a pump bottle and can be dosed directly into the water column.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aquarium Co-op Easy Green is a popular choice<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

These nutrients are best for plants that absorb more nutrients from the water column than their roots. All aquatic plants absorb nutrients from both their roots and the water column. But some lean more towards one or the other.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We recommend using both root tabs and all-in-one liquid fertilizers for your low-tech tank. This will give your plants the best chance of flourishing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We’ve only ever used Thrive all-in-one liquid fertilizer because it is more easily available in Canada. But we have heard excellent feedback from other aquarist who use Aquarium Co-op Easy Green.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Thrive all-in-one liquid fertilizer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Choose plants that you will have the most success growing<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Plants are the obvious requirement when building a low-tech planted tank. Each plant species will thrive in slightly different water parameters and will consume varying amounts of macro and micronutrients.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you’re building your first planted tank, we recommend choosing the easiest and most fail-proof plants you can to increase your probability of success.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

When we first started, we naively believed we could grow any plant species. We proceeded to choose some species that are known to grow poorly in our local water conditions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Struggling to grow rotala rotundafolia<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Also, our lack of experience with substrates and fertilization caused many of our plants to melt back and completely die off. This wasn’t a particularly encouraging experience.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The reason this happened is because we wanted the most beautiful-looking plants in our tank. The problem is that many of the nicest-looking aquarium plants you see displayed online are grow by professional aquascapers in high-tech setups.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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High-tech tank with demanding plants<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

This gave us the false belief that we would have success growing the same plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After learning the hard way that we were not experienced enough to grow certain plants, we lowered our standards and opted for easy-to-grow beginner plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vallisneria is an easy-to-grow plant for most tanks<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

We were able to successfully grow these plants, which made the planted tank experience so much more enjoyable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We believe you will have more fun if you choose some easy plants for your first tank. <\/strong>You can always upgrade later on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Optional equipment<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Aqua soil substrate contains plant nutrients<\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Aqua soil is active substrate that is designed specifically for growing plants. It usually contains macronutrients, micronutrient, water softeners or some combination of all three.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Aqua
Aqua soil<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

These ingredients are exactly what plants need to thrive in your aquarium, which is why they’re a popular substrate choice for many planted tank keepers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most popular aqua soil brands are as follows:<\/p>\n\n\n\n